Our Little Adventures

Hi everyone,

My name is Mariusz. I’m from Poland, I’m also a half of Our-Little-Adventures traveling blog, or frankly I should say quarter of this blog. As you probably already suspect we are a traveling family. So far, with our daughter (22 months old), we have visited Chile, Iceland, Romania, Italy and Ukraine. Our last trip was to Israel.

Before our trip we had different plans, ideas of how to spend this time in Israel. For sure we at least knew that during our last days we want to spend doing nothing, just chilling. It turned out that during the remaining 11 days, as a team compiled of a wife at 7 months pregnant, and husband and a child we did a lot of things. Let me invite you to our little adventure.

Tempted by cheap flights from Cracow to Ovda provided by Ryanair, we decided do the traditionally escape from the cold weather at this time of the year in Poland. It turned out that the tickets were the first and last cheap thing in Israel (for Poles, in our opinion) during our two weeks in Holy Land.

We landed In Ovda on Saturday during the Sabbath. We thought this will be ground us in Eilat. However, we did not want to waste time on in the south right now, and our itinerary assumed showing up the same day in Tel Aviv. From Poland, we ordered tickets from airport directly to Tel-Aviv (Eilat-Shuttle – we do not recommend).  Direct connection turned out to be a fiction: in Eilat is nearly five hours stopover, about which no one even mentioned during reservation or e-mail confirmation. In addition to the TLV bus which goes through Jerusalem, which extend the journey by at least one hour. Of two evils, the weather in Eilat was great and at least we were able to spend some time on the rocky beach near marina.

Our trips are by default budget ones, hence we use different ways to save money. For instance by using the popular Couchsurfing portal. This also gives us opportunity to meet and get to know the locals and their daily life. With our host in TLV we had set up an appointment at 7 pm, but unfortunately we arrived at 1 am. As if this wasn’t bad enough, it turned out that the intercom to his apartment was broken and the battery in my cell phone was dead (I only had phone number to our host). We still can’t believe what luck we had that in front of the next building were two Kazakh guys. One of them lent us a cell phone and somehow we got into the apartment. Our host wasn’t delighted, but for us it was important to have a roof over our heads.

The next day, one of the “must see” places in TLV was the zoo and the nearby safari. No, we hadn’t rented a car and unfortunately lost a lot due to this. Our Marianna loves zebras and giraffes, and we missed our chance to meet them face to face because the bus driver wasn’t willing to stop for a while, or even open a window :-(. The Zoo itself was quite good, especially the open area for kids with domesticated species. We forgot that the llamas could spit on you :-).

For those who are looking for sightseeing Tel-Aviv might not be satisfying. But it is worth to plunge into the twisting, narrow streets of the Old Port in the City of Jaffa, which is nowadays a district of TLV. To get there from the city center, we decided to walk alongside promenade. The Mediterranean air and the wind didn’t encourage long sunbathing, but surfers were in seventh heaven. It was getting pretty late, and we had to check-in today in the Abraham Hostel in Jerusalem. I told you, it would be intense, wouldn’t it?! It is worth mentioning that this hostel is amazing and impressive, especially the common area. We also had opportunity to meet the owners during the Sabbath dinner – great people J.

After the first day we had a few quick thoughts. Israel is expensive. In fact everything that tourists must buy is in a ridiculous price. On the other hand, what is not necessary to survive is in normal prices (similar to polish), for example diapers :-). The principle “if farther you are from tourist hustle and bustle the prices are lower” is obviously valid in Israel.

We didn’t stay long in Jerusalem at this time, but we will back to it at the end of our sightseeing part of the trip. We got to the west coast at Caesarea, but this was just a stop during our ride to Nazareth. We reached Caesarea by bus provided by Abraham Tours. At the spot we had not much time, so we just saw Amphitheater, and strolled along cost. What we saw wasn’t frankly impressive.

To Nazareth we got at 2pm. First impression? Where are all the people?! We checked-in at the Fauzi Azar Inn hostel, another hostel that makes a great impression. With one guy from Fauzi we went for an afternoon free tour of Nazareth. But this wasn’t ordinary free tour during which we visit touristic attractions. We visited places where we wouldn’t even think to step in, such as the old mill, which now sells spices and sweets.

In Nazareth we were three nights but the city itself we explored on our last day. From Nazareth, we intend to explore north part of Israel. Therefore, the next day we went on a “pilgrimage” :-). We visited Capernaum, the Mount of the Beatitudes and the Sea of ​​Galilee, the place where – according to the New Testament – Jesus lived and taught. I remember as a child I had imagined the place as a magical land where unusual things happen. Something that really exist, surpassing time, space and the normal course of events and something that belongs to the world of dreams, the stories handed down from generation to generation. Something that did not have the right to happen, and yet happened.

Today, when we visited those places together with Mania, this extraordinary world of children’s faith disappeared and left me with nothing. We saw a great prosperous places, with pilgrims form all around the world, managed by successive generations associated with the Church. Shops where you can buy various souvenirs and devotional items: Coca-Cola and potato chips next to magnets for refrigerator with Christ effigy.

However, when we looked a little deeper, ignoring this whole pop-pilgrimage background, we saw that in each of these place is something that really attracts: peace and grandeur of the Sea, on which shore I taught Marianna how to skim stones, ruins of the synagogue where Jesus preached in which Marianna by herself overcame next steps, or the light emanating from the church on the Mount of the Beatitudes, around which together diddling and looking for the orange trees. Surely the point at which we were, discovering the places on our own was beneficiary, since January is not the high season in the so-called Holy Land. It was not so crowded (in fact there was almost no one), so we could alone find our rhythm.

I think that is the point of traveling to all of those famous sites from various important books and those less important place – on finding you own way to experience them somewhere between the pages of the guide and “must see” places. That day we were also able to get almost to the border with Syria – Mount Bental. Did we feel unsafe? No, we didn’t. The only things that attracts our attention were the UN checkpoints and barbed wire. What you can see in the background on the photo with Marianna and the dragon. After yesterday we felt an inner need to rest a little bit of religious sites. That’s why the fifth day we decided to spend in nature.

The main goal was reaching the border with Lebanon, the caves of Rosh HaNikra. Everything went great, after two hours we had just 11km to the caves. Unfortunately, Rosh HaNikra is not perfectly communicated with Nahariya. At the central bus station, it turned out that we must wait two and a half hour for bus to Rosh HaNikra. We could not afford it, because on the same day we wanted to also visit the ancient Akko (Acre). We did have another option than catch a taxi. 15 minutes later, we got to the spot, for the cost of 12€.

To the caves there’s only one way – a short cable car down to the cliff. By the way this cable car is the steepest funicular in the world (60°). Just like all entrance fees in Israel here we had to also pay dearly for admission – 11€ per person. When Marianna had spotted two colorful wagons she stared bouncing with joy. It’s amazing how our travel is changing as our child gets older. She completely changed our priorities and ultimately we are pleased more when Mania is smiling and happy than for instance during visiting the caves, which we must admit were worth to see.

But more important at this time was a question: how to get back to the city?! :-). Bus stop is easy to find but without schedule. Knowing frequency of bus departure, we assumed that we probably have to wait a long time. A taxi also was out of the question. Decision was made. It’s time for Mania’s first hitch-hiking :-). It took us … 3 minutes. The guy who stopped was a gasoline tradesman. His work is primarily based on driving around the surrounding region, due to this he decided to give us a lift to Akko.

Ok we admit, Acre was probably the best city in Israel which we have visited. Climatic, lively, with narrow cobbled streets. We felt the atmosphere in the air. Undoubtedly our impression was enhanced by the amazing sunset seen from the ramparts near the marina. We regretted that we hadn’t got more time to stay there. Especially that Acre welcomed us with an amazing humus and falafel. The best one which we have ever eaten in Israel.

The plan was also to see Haifa as well, but unfortunately nightfall had come despite a fairly close connection length to Nazareth, but the bus ride takes disproportionately long. Generally, it is probably faster to get to Haifa and later to Acre, because the buses do not run through all villages and towns. Finally, we have the opportunity to sightseeing a “must see” spots of Nazareth during the day. Unfortunately, both in the night and day the city does not make good impression. Frankly there are not much “must see” spots in Nazareth. We visited the Basilica of the Annunciation and did some shopping in the Old Town. After three days we have spent in Nazareth we might say that we became recognizable in the area near hostel. So recognizable that evening walks through the Old Town ended with invitation to smoke some weed :-). Nevertheless we felt very safe.

We had left Nazareth and charming Fauzi Azar Inn and went to Jerusalem. Not directly to Jerusalem because on the way we barge into extinct at this time of year, Tiberias and stopped for a while in Yardenit, one of the two Jesus’ baptism spots. We could not resist the feeling that the people who come to the Jordan River to renew baptism or accept it only treat it as one of many tourist attractions, and make it more for fun and photos, than for the inner need. Fortunately we did not stay too long on the banks of the River Jordan.

In Jerusalem, in Abraham Hostel, we showed up in the late afternoon. This pretty intense time in northern Israel exhausted us so much that we decided to spend the evening at the hostel. In addition, the next day will require from us a decent rest and strength.

In the category of pregnant women plus child, we probably we set the world record in hiking up to Masada. 45 minutes and we were on the top. The snake path isn’t very, very demanding. But the views from the top are overwhelming. Besides, it’s hard to imagine to go up there in the middle of the day, in the sun. The heat around 9 o’clock was unendurable. For those who have a card entry to national parks in Israel – the card is valid from 8 o’clock. To see the sunrise over Masada you still have to pay 29 NIS.

Near Masada is also the Ein Gedi Nature Reserve. A piece of green space and water in the middle of Judean desert. Although there is not too much to see but this place in our opinion is a paradise for children. Unless of course you’re not afraid your baby might die of pneumonia 🙂 when gets wet. The number of stones in small waterfalls provided Marianna tremendously a lot of fun.The last point of the day was the beach in the northern part of the Dead Sea. About the sea we will not write much – a lot of information can be found on the Internet. Unfortunately, two of the three of us did not glow with joy to this attraction. Mania mainly by the categorical prohibition of paddling the water, and Dad due to horrible entry into the water which could cause injuries. And we hope that we don’t have to explain how the salty water affects, in short term, wounds :-).

In the evening, at the hostel, one more attraction awaited us. Together with the other guests of Abraham we were preparing a common, traditional Shabbat dinner. Mania also helped (peeled chestnuts), but soon she got bored and started to eat carrots and moving dishes from one place to another. Dinner, apart from the obvious advantage – the food, was also for us a great experience in learning about Jewish culture and tradition.

Let’s go back for a moment to 1995 to Taba. Back then the Second Oslo Accord between Palestine and Israel was signed, which inter alia divided the West Bank into three zones A, B, C. The first is controlled fully by Palestine (approximately 3% of the area), to this zone the Jews are not allow to enter. Zone B is governed by the Palestinians, under the control of Israel and Palestine, and zone C under the occupation of Israel. Today those zones are a flashpoint in relations between Israel and Palestine, especially the largest of them – C, to which access for the Palestinians is straitened. Sometimes they must wait in queues at checkpoints for several hours.

Tourists’ movement is easier. We had spent at checkpoints no more than 10 minutes. Our guide was a native Palestinian named Tamer, who greeted us with the words: “You are the bloggers” :-). Our fame has spread even to Palestine :-P. During the whole tour Tamer was as cool as a cucumber talking about a fairly complex relations between Israel and Palestine. Ramallah, because it was the first city in our itinerary, the official capital of Palestine. During the Palestinian-Israeli clashes to all intents and purposes razed to the ground. This affected the tourist attractiveness of the place, or rather the lack of it. Tourist attention is drawn to the place of burial of Yasser Arafat. Once again we have seen that tourism in the world doesn’t know boundaries of kitsch – What value may have a picture at the grave of Palestinian leader?!

Next was Jericho, which is considered as the oldest city on earth. Sightseeing recommended only for people with big imagination :-). A few stones built up into smaller or larger piles. However, it’s worth to take a ride in cable car to the Mount of Temptation. Mania could not believe that we were going in red “box” so high. Of course, the greatest emotion was in front of us – the next red cable car :-).

Another biblical place, but this time its mystique touched us, and at least half of our traveler’s group. In the Basilica of the Nativity Mania went to the birthplace of Jesus and put a hand into the “star”. Strange feeling – Caroline in pregnant in such a place, Mania behaved in such a way. Tears appeared. The atmosphere did not last too long because the quite small room inside the Basilica was invaded by a group of Asian tourists with their phones, tablets and cameras. At the one end of the room people pray, on the other one the crowd of gaping onlookers watching through a hole in the ground, pushing each other just to touch, see and go further.

Bethlehem however, is not only the Basilica. In Bethlehem were created the works, the most famous (yet anonymous) street artist in the world today. It is worth to see and feel the atmosphere of the place and understand the message of his work in this spot.

Eventually! We had time for Jerusalem. I guess you cannot be in Israel and not be in this city, even for one day. Jerusalem can be visited in many ways. We initially had planned four days, but ultimately bad weather forced us to leave after three. The weather was so variable that on the first day we strolled around in t-shirts and on last we had to buy a cap for Mania.

The multicultural of the city is felt from miles, it is also noticeable. Depending on the quarter of the Old City, the attitude of locals to us has changed radically. Of course, the greatest disparities feel between the Muslim and the Jewish quarter. Those first are open, smiling, noisy and joyful. Those second, in turn, are the meek, well-organized and distrustful. The presence of Mania didn’t change fundamentally the approach to us. It is worth mentioning that the entry to Yad Vashem with children is forbidden.

Jerusalem is primarily a place of worship for each of the four religions present there, fantastically for us to experience the mix. Mix of religions, but also the sacred and the profane, where the combination wasn’t so much visible as in Bethlehem. Maybe it was also a matter of low season, and thus the lack of crowds visiting one or another church or running in a race called the Via Dolorosa. Delightfully was also a break from the hustle and stroll around the rooftops of the Old Town (ask locals about directions).

The most positive experience we had on the Temple Mount. We went to the square where the tourists (non-Jews) can access only twice a day, for an hour. A huge area, where Mania found herself in a few seconds. She set up quickly and brief friendships which ensure her on the one hand candy, and on the other hand, a piece of challah, but above all a lot of fun with the ball and with other kids.

When telling this story to our family or even friends we often hear the question, “Weren’t you afraid to let her go?! After all they are Muslims”. The only way for us to respond is nothing more than a smile :-). It is amazing how much ingrained in us is the fear of something that we do not know or understand.

The last stop of our trip was previously mentioned, Eilat. After 3 hours journey by Egged bus again we felt the heat – 25 degrees in January, and loved it. For these moments we try to escape every year from Poland. We have an ambitious plan – to do nothing. First of all, Eilat is a hmmm… like most tourist cities – hotels, restaurants, beaches.

We had found a room on Airbnb. Eilat has this small problem: In order to get to attractive beaches you will have to take a bus or hitch-hiking so frankly it does not matter where you exactly live. For me, unfortunately for my wife I was going to dive in Eilat, precisely on a “Satil” wreck. In terms of attractions for children its worth going to the Underwater Observatory, despite the high ticket price.

After two weeks in Israel, we were visited by a polish winter. Since that time our son appears on this world and now we are planning for another trip, this time 2 + 2.

Check out our video of the trip to Israel!

For more detailed stories from the whole trip, you are welcomed to read our travel diary.

Regards

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